Lavaredo Ultra Trail was on the wish list for quite long, and in 2024 the time for the participation came, as I was successfully extracted at the ballot. A procedure that becomes more frequent at such competitions, ones of the most popular in the world, with limited slots available. Being in the mountain side, it is obvious, we cannot align tens of thousands of runners, like in city marathons. But people want to participate, especially as this is a competition part of the UTMB World Series. Crazy! The 50k run I’ve chose – for obvious reasons – is the most popular, and being selected obliged me to take action. For those who don’t know, Lavaredo Ultra Trail is held in Cortina d’Ampezzo, a very popular location in northern Italy, in the heart of the Dolomites, with a splendid landscape all around. It is more popular for skiing, then in the winter time, but with this occasion, the accommodation was also crazy expensive. And the biggest problem is that it didn’t deserve not even half the money!
First impression from Cortina d’Ampezzo
Considering I don’t want to recommend it, I won’t talk about it, but do want to mention the transportation. Generally speaking, easiest way to get to Cortina is to take a plane to Treviso, the Airlink to the train station, no. 3 to Silea, and then Cortina Express to the location. Of course, most likely, you need to have one night of accommodation in Treviso. If you are lucky, though, you can chain everything and make it the same day. Or, if you rent a car, of course. It is just something I didn’t took in consideration. Anyway, once disembarked in Cortina d’Ampezzo, the atmosphere of the Lavaredo 2024 hit us in the face. The small village center was colored in the flags of the competitions, yellow and black, so there was the start / finish gate – for my race – and our settlement only 50 meters away. Fair decision, from these regards. My mistake was not to check the accommodations which offered discount for runners from this event, but it is something you can learn from, and do in the future. 🙂
Fiames 10k race day, by… night
Our vacation was split between the races and some exploring of the region. First, in the arrival day, Anca went for a 10k nocturnal run thru the forest of Fiames, a small sports center, 4.5 kilometers from Cortina d’Ampezzo (north). As I saw, she enjoyed the experience at its full, and got a very interesting medal at the end. This is 26th of June. 27th of June is for a hike and a bumpy cabin climb at the foot of Monte Cristallo. We take some pictures here, enjoy the view, and then run 8 kilometers back, after a decent uphill hike to the place. The Dolomites are really outstanding! It was just what I needed to shake my legs, before the big race day, and we make it back to Cortina d’Ampezzo exactly when the 20k race departs. We see all the contestants mildly struggling at the climb start, while still being compact. We choose to move away, and take advantage of a quiet and relaxing evening.
Mini-panic before the start of Lavaredo Ultra Trail 2024
It’s 06:40 AM, and I need to go for a short breakfast, as the restaurant opens at 07:00 A.M. Unfortunately, a very noisy and oversized group of tourists ruin my wellbeing, and I am trying to finish my coffee asap. I do it, put everything in place, check three times my equipment, exit and try to warm up… Only 700 meters, as the people are already packed for the start: 1.670 souls. I realize I cannot fit in line, so I am entering, somewhere, aside. Like I did in Berlin, in 2019, when 40.000+ runners were ready to commence the marathon. I manage to, somehow, merge with the main group, and off we go. A bit crowded at the beginning, but as meters pass, I am finding a path. I know a rather long climb is ahead, but it is not something to scare me, not very steep. I know I can endure, I have the stamina to challenge it, so I do. I am using one headset for some podcasts, but unfortunately the battery is at 20%, so shortly I rely on the nature sounds to keep me entertained for the whole “journey”.
Made a calculated hydration & electrolytes plan for Lavaredo 2024
At kilometer 4+, a very pleasant surprise awaits me. Anca, with the rest of the La Sportiva morning run group – they started at 07:30! – are waiting for us, to cheer, and I also get some photos. Great energy, great vibe! At about the same moment, I realize I didn’t tapped my map, the race map, from my new Polar Grit X watch, and I am trying to recover. Quite late, but, what can I do more…? The weather is hotter than I expected, and the heat is never in my advantage. My classic white cap, though, helps me moving forward. Studied the race plan very carefully, and got four bottles with 1.25 liters with me, from which, 1 liter of water with salt and magnesium, to keep my electrolytes under control. After a complex testing, at Unstoppable Sports Club, under Alex Diaconu, I’ve learned the importance of hydrating like this. Well, I should have done it thru the entire race, but… I don’t like the taste too much, and then, I needed to have extra pills with me to add them when taking the water from the designated points. Of course, I didn’t. Still, comparing to 0 in the past, this should do.
First significant great experience with Kiprun MT3
Anyway, I knew that there are three “pit-stops” on the way, but at kilometer 24, 31, and 39. A bit rush, but I relied also at the extra hydration point from kilometer 17. I’ve calculated my consumption in a manner that here I can both refresh, with some cold water – didn’t knew at that point it would be spring water, so a very big pleasant surprise! – and also refill my reserves. What I didn’t expect of, was a big queue of runners, which slowed me down a bit, but not that much. Maybe by… 4-5 minutes, at most. Up and going! The mild climb continues, and this time going thru water needs to be an option. I am not trying to complicate my existence and avoid the streams, so I pass naturally and keep the shortest path. Of course the water is cold, but also the landscape is wonderful. And to my biggest surprise, my new Kiprun MT3 not only they have the perfect grip I knew about from past generations, but in a mater of literally tens of seconds get dried and no water is captured inside, to soak my two pairs of socks I am using. Victory!
2.000 meters fresh air
I feel good, I am aiming to finish the race in under 7 hours if possible, if not, somewhere around. Who knows? I have never been there, and never experience everything I am stepping on now. I am just progressing and wonder where will the next pit stop be. Not because I was in the need for everything, but more for setting a goal to follow. Then, a very good steady descent followed, where I can literally run at a very decent speed – this is the type of mountain trail I like! – took the challenge, and so I take the mild easy climb back up. Already at 2.000 meters. A strange feeling, though, because the plateau was surrounded by tall peaks, and the sun burning relatively strong. And then… a steep, narrow, twisted climb to the supply point – exactly the one I don’t like – spreads it’s way in front of my feet. I see that fresh water is at its bottom, also something to eat, so then then I’m driven by this desire, and it goes decent. It reminds me of a path in Andorra. I don’t spend too much time here, just for some cheese, lemon, Coke, and the holly Grail of fresh cold water. Another climb follows.
Great pictures from Lavaredo 2024 and a horrible experience
Now, this section is indeed special. We go up to almost 2400 meters, and here I spot the first photographer, and arrange for some great photos, which, indeed, will be recorded. Also, to my greatest surprise, some locals, from a bar, hand us water, and I am so grateful – regardless of how much was in the hydration point, you can never get enough when you run 50 kilometers! – now, another great descent starts and I am thrilled I can leverage my downhill speed. Things are working fine, I am checking the distance to the second “pit stop”, but I also need to be very careful. It is, maybe, the most rocky portion of the race, and nobody wants to get hurt. I see a helicopter, and I am thinking it might be with the purpose for filming us. But no… A pile of 20 people are blocked, don’t progress. Running is idled. It is a medical helicopter, and the staff take up somebody. The view is solemn, hope she is fine – I’ve learned afterwards a girl was the person picked up. The “flock” is released, and the silence, for some time, is almost creepy. We are 20, 30 maybe, but nobody talks, like a mutual silence prolonged moment for what happened.
A high climb before my eyes
Being in such a race, like Lavaredo Ultra Trail though, makes everything fade, mostly because of the adrenaline, so I am picking up my thoughts to the supply point that is about to come. Another easy descent, with a wonderful landscape behind, captured in pictures, I would learn after a few days, of course. It is kilometer 31, and I ask again for what I need, mainly cheese and lemon, plus Coke and sparkling water. We cannot take ourselves, but this is not a problem, on the contrary: more hygienic, and the staff is very prompt in giving us whatever needed anyway. Refreshed, refilled, and ready to go. I am rising my sight, and then I see it: biggest climb of them all. Quite nasty, but I feel so good. Unbreakable, for sure. The only thing… I realize I won’t finish, without any doubt, below 7 hours. Uh, oh… so what? Let’s make the most of it, challenge the climb, and we’ll see afterwards. I even decide to take some photos of my own, because everything looks amazing. For 20 kilometers of the total 47, 2000+ meters was the correct benchmark. Things pass rapidly, the climb ends, and then, more or less, we move easily to the last part of the race, where only flat or downhill awaits us.
Forest mode activated at Lavaredo Ultra Trail 2024
This portion passed without me being timebound in anyway, such was my attention and amazement to what surrounded me. I know I am closing to the final supply point before the finish, and then I am here. I meet a guy from Romania, Robert, and run with him for a while. Slowly, we enter into the woods, as we are preparing to go below 2.000. In the last “check point” I can take myself what is needed, but apart from water and a bit of Coke, nothing can replace my chocolate bars and black currant gels I already used to fill my tank. Eight kilometers to go! Mostly thru the forest, so then I know it is the type of path I like so very much. I am slowed down for some minutes, because my phone keeps ringing. The carrier brought me something, even if it was clearly mentioned that it should arrive only next Monday. Once settled this, put my phone back in a plastic bag, arrange it in my belt, and speed on! Unfortunately, the belt enlarged the grip and it didn’t feel comfortable at all, from a psychological perspective, at least. But I’ve managed somehow to tighten it, and everything was in perfect shape.
Last meters of the race, with a sensational finish
For the last kilometers I am feeling really strong, and the portion where I am tacking people one by one, as I can maintain a constant decent speed, comes. Especially when I hit the asphalt of Cortina d’Ampezzo. I am relieved, in some ways, that I will end this, but a last slight uphill, I didn’t need, forced me to scream in despair and fake anger. I make the curve, and enter the final 200 meter stretch. I see a guy in front, and I scream: “Go! Go! Go!”, just in the idea that I want him to be aware I am about to pass by, and push him to step on it. Unfortunately for him, he couldn’t. He is also getting scared of me and thinks, for a moment, that is not the correct path – sorry lad, my intentions were great! 🙂 I use a final boost of energy and try to finalize below 7 hours 45 minutes, a new objective I miss by seconds. But my morale has a great boost, once the announcer pronounces my name so clearly and cheers my finish in a outstanding way – I am under the impression the lady was Romanian. 🙂 From 1.170 male finishes, I come in 471 at Lavaredo Ultra Trail 2024. No performance at competition scale level, but a great achievement for me!
No finisher medal, but neither any garbage in the race kit
Going now to drink some water, as Anca is awaiting for me, as always, with a camera and one liter of cold water. She took advantage of the tracking system that showed my movement towards the whole race. I am also taking a look of my vest. The finisher vest, because at 50 kilometers and above you don’t get any finisher medal… A bit disappointing, but I knew this will happen. And it is not like the vest cannot be used as a memory of my finish here! Now, going back to this, to the runners gift, we received only a t-shirt and the BIB number, and this vest. For me, given their apparent good quality, is more than enough, as I heard all kind of complaints. It is true that in Romania, for example, you get much more staff in the kit, but 80% of it is garbage, consisting of vouchers you hardly can use, gels, bars, mouth scarfs, mostly ugly as fuck, sugar drinks or yogurts, alcohol free drinks, and such. From this regard, I was happy to not be overwhelmed with disposable things the sponsor don’t need and throw to the organizers, which they then pass to the runners.
EcoRun, 2X2, Piatra Craiului Marathon, decent experiences in Romania
At least in Lavaredo, apart from this, we had very strong signaling of the trail, with orange band, not like in Brasov Marathon, for example, where you could get lost at any point, things mentioned to the organizers after the race. I am putting here Brasov, because it is a race with much more potential, but with a lot of fails, which can show very clear why the difference between a race in Cortina d’Ampezzo and one in Romania can be huge. Let aside the price. You don’t need to pay to run, you can go running in your neighborhood, like I mostly do. The principle is simple, and the main dots should be drawn and connected, which Lavaredo Ultra Run 2024 did. I can give examples of great runs in Romania, like the EcoRun, 2X2 or Piatra Craiului Marathon, but here other topics hit the wall, like the very poor mobility connection to Moieciu de Sus or Balea Lake, so then if you don’t have a car you have many problems in making it, and then the connection if you come from abroad. Ours, in Cortina, took 9 and a half hours, from the hotel to our home in Bucharest. Pretty decent. Given the roads in Romania, I doubt you can make it in under two hours from any city in the two locations mentioned above.
Lavaredo Ultra Trail, commercial, but wonderful event
The Lavaredo Ultra Trail is purely a commercial event, I understand that, and this is how it should be, unlike the Marathon Piatra Craiului, the oldest overall running event in Romania, which always announces the start of the registration only few weeks before the event. I truly like it here, and a resemblance to Lavaredo is that I didn’t get a medal in 2023. A book instead. You can get there easier, in Zarnesti, and the landscape is unique, but the very limited promotion of the event, any other than word of mouth, makes it not that popular as it could. In any case, my overall experience in Lavaredo was fantastic, even the Italians are far from being perfect. I would go in the future, if you ask me, and the only big change I will make is to adjust the accommodation at a different level and not to pay hundreds of needless euros! Now, as we’ve enjoyed some lunch in a very nice restaurant, we’re making the departure plan for the next day, and realize that my muscles sourness is almost at zero. This is something rather new to me.
My training pays off: almost no muscular fatigue after Lavaredo Ultra Trail
I think it is the race after I feel in the best shape, given the huge effort, and the fact that mostly I have pushed the pedal – I could say I would run under six hours if I dealt with the race more serious, and didn’t stop for pictures and such, like many jokers point out, or make excuses, but the reality is that I’ve cruised at a comfortable 85% level of effort, which for 47 kilometers with 2400 meters of ascent, that is huge. Anyway, the muscle reliance could have a source in my long easy runs of HR below 128, as Alex Diaconu recommended me when I took the test in April. I think this kind of controlled effort pays off, and helps me feel great. In fact, the main purpose of the whole running thing. I know my speed performance have no more reasonable room to expand, so then using my body wisely is the primarily thing that drives me, and I see myself on the correct path. I am thinking about this, already, in the Treviso airport. When I enjoy a tiramisu which proved to be originating from the region. Honestly, I had no idea prior to this experience.
Tiramisu at its… home?
In fact, not only tiramisu, but also Proseco is considered to originate here, so some brand headquarters lie in the region: Benetton, De Longhi, Diadora, Lotto. Wow! We are, basically, in the heart of a slice of Italian history. But the “cake” of this history is so big, that almost we don’t regret we don’t have a bit of time to take a tour of the town. Maybe some other time. This journey was about Cortina d’Ampezzo. A location also very close to La Sportiva headquarters – the main technical sponsor of Lavaredo, and one of the top mountaineering brands in the world, and not the least, in the village, alongside Milan, the winter Olympics will be hosted in beginning of 2026, signs for which we saw all over the place – Cortina ahs 120 kilometers of runs for skiers! What can we say more? Another overall meaningful experience. The participation here was not as desired at the one from MIUT, at least from my side, since Madeira has already a special place in my soul, but Cortina’s offer surprised us, and made us pin another wonderful moment of our travelling & exploring life.
Some of Cortina d’Ampezzo
