I can say Tromsø is my favorite place to be. The normal touristic season is during winter, but my dream was to run the Midnight Sun Marathon. No better timing for a long holiday in June, in the undisputed Arctic capital. In our previous two trips, during January, we did a lot of activities, about which I write in some posts, but the activities you can link to Tromsø are countless, and the point of this story is to cover our new experiences, taking advantage of the 24 hours day. We booked a eight night stay, which looks more than enough to experience things, but in reality, you’ll see, things are not so easy.
Gateway to the Arctic, first stop in Tromsø!
The arrival is on 17th of June, in the afternoon, after a sleepless night, but also after enjoying Norway’s World Cup 4-1 win against Iraq, their first game at the competition in 28 years. We will land in a very good vibe, that’s for sure. The tiredness is obvious, but we need to enjoy a bit the center, and check out the Gateway to the Arctic, a monument which didn’t existed in our last visit, at the beginning of 2024. It sets an additional charm on the place, with view towards the Arctic Cathedral and the link bridge to Tromsdalen. It is likely to capture also the Northern Lights in the winter. I am not sure, because it is summer.
Quality Hotel Grand Tromsø, perfect place to stay in the summer
Of course, we need rest, as a full day awaits for us. A chill one, indeed, but still… But first, the classic stop: Hard Rock Cafe Tromsø, our third visit here. Some shop visits, and sleep. It is tricky to get ready for rest during all in light, all the time, because the brain struggles to understand the pattern. Luckily, Quality Hotel Grand Tromsø has curtains that solve this problem instantly. We rest, of course, and enjoy the first full relaxed day in the town. First main stop in Tromsø: the botanical garden, the northernmost in the world!
Arctic-alpine botanical garden, northernmost in the world
We’ve been there in the winter, but the dark didn’t help to understand too much. The thing is the place is opened 24/7, free of charge. It is rather small, you can’t compare it with the big ones around the planet, but its charm and status makes it unique and truly enjoyable. Tromsøya is really a very green place, and in the summer this can be noticed very easily. The pictures talk for themselves. Even if it is free, you have the possibility to contribute by going at a self service cafe, to enjoy a cup of coffee, and some cake. We did that, and we find it an interesting concept. Even if it was not new for us, neither is that something very easy to encounter, so we enjoy the experience.
Finally, got thru the 3.5 kilometers underwater tunnel!
Going ahead, we aim to pass the underwater tunnel that links Tromsøya to Tromsdalen, something I’ll detail in a separate post, because it is really worth diving in a bit, since the Norwegians prove to be so magnificent engineers when it comes to great transportation infrastructure. After making this “check”, we “sign in” for a group run with Arctic Blizzards Running Club, an early shake out run for the Midnight Sun Marathon. It is an interesting experience, but the 5 kilometer route is not enough for us, so we just extend with a stretch on the bridge, towards the Arctic Cathedral, around it and back. 11 kilometers and we call it a successful day.
The reindeer from Kvaløya
We need to retire in our brightly lighted by the sun room, and get some more rest. Sommarøy, a special place, is waiting for us the next day for a 4.5 hours round trip with a picnic. More to come about this, because it has a different flavor, but I need to add that on our way to the tiny island we discover the much bigger neighbor of Tromsøya, Kvaløya. Linked by a similar bridge – but much less popular – to the one which bounds the mainland to Tromsøya, the particularity of this place is that you can see reindeer walking freely on the road, exactly as you cross the bridge. A detail important to later chapter of my story.
Picking our bib for the Midnight Sun Marathon
We see reindeer both when we go, and also when we return, but we enjoy the view only from the bus, of course. Being back in the city by 2:30 PM, we still have plenty of time to enjoy our pre-race day. Walking, exploring Tromsø even more in depth, we also go for a final short 6 kilometer run. We are set up for the Midnight Sun Marathon, especially that we also picked up our bib number, and decide to buy a t-shirt and a blouse of the event for a more lasting memory. The green color convinced us very easy to go for the pieces.
Some more cultural Tromsø
Of course, the event being scheduled at 20:30 the next day, we can’t just hang around and rest for the entire time, because it can bring much stress than mental relief. So we decide to go for a walk to two major objectives of the town, some we didn’t checked in before:
- MS Polstjerna – a preserved fishing boat from decades ago near Polaria (which we previously visited)
- Arctic University Museum of Norway
The first place was quite easy to access, but the second have a different story. A bit further comparing to the city center, the walk to the museum was not a problem. The only issue was the return, because we opted not to return by foot, but to take a bus. A bus which didn’t arrive, so we needed to walk to another one, on an annoying rain. We waited for that one also, so we might have just walked the 2.5 kilometers it would have been less time and far less stressful. In the end, we made it, arrived in our room and started our rest session before the marathon.
Big day, big feelings before the Midnight Sun Marathon!
On the same time, we were watching some World Cup matches, topping Netherlands – Sweden 5-1 (first half only, of course). We see the 5K race start, also the 10K start and… finishes for both. Clock is ticking, I am getting a bit nervous, but still feel highly confident. About the race, my full report is here, so do need to bother anymore on talking about it again. 🙂 What it does matter is every day after! Especially Sunday, because it is the… recovery day. Recovery who!? From the beginning we shaped up a plan, and considering we went to sleep well past 2 AM, the strategy needed clarity.
Recovery time!
Our luck, sort to say, was that the breakfast, in the weekend, was served up to 11:00 AM, so then we benefit of some extra sleep. After we ate, another generous Norwegian selection, we decided to walk towards Tromsøbadet. We have explored prior were is it, what is it like, and what to expect, so then we said we need to take advantage, on Sunday from around 2 PM to 6 PM – closing time of the facility. It is not something we do usually when we go into this kind of vacation, but this public swimming pool is something else.
Tromsøbadet a real municipality jewel!
For a small island where around 50,000 people live, the construction is amazing. Not only it has an Olympic size pool with ten lines – many restricted when the jumping platforms (four) are opened to public – but there are so many smaller and bigger swimming pools, with waves, with an outdoor decent sized facility where you can relax and enjoy a stunning mountain view; there are huge slides, saunas, pool for exercise, and things can go on. You just need to go there, if you happen to pass by. The cleanness of Tromsøbadet is truly unbelievable, and the easy and careful access for disabled people is purely wonderful.
Everything you need at the swimming pool situated in the middle of Tromsø
Having it fully automatized, you enter very easy, without any people interaction, if you don’t want to, even if you have a reception were you are politely answered to all questions you might have as a new comer. You need only a towel and a swimming suit. That is it. No other stuff. You can bring in slippers, but it is so clean, that you will conclude they are not that necessary. You have a place were you can order food from, including reindeer burger, pizza or sausages, deserts, drinks. No alcohol, of course, as I mentioned several times that this is a very sensitive topic in Norway.
No phones… Was not that bad!
The only thing that can bother you a bit is that you are not allow to take your phone beyond the locker room. You can’t film, take pictures or things like that. It can sadden people who might want a memory from the place, but it makes perfect sense considering how many children are there. In the end, this is not that bad, because you learn how easy it can still be to spend four or five hours without a phone. And I am saying this with consolidated understanding, because our experience was so good here, that we have returned three days after, in our last full one in Tromsø. So couldn’t take pictures, then you need to check it out for yourself here: tromsobadet.no.
Sherpa steps, a mandatory check point for summer in Tromsø!
Relaxing in the water is always a pure relaxation for one’s joints, and a mild privilege for muscles, especially after a marathon, but then again it is not enough. Taking advantage of the fact that our time here can’t be extended beyond 18:00, but also knowing how long the day can be we take another bold decision: Sherpa steps tackle. Yep, you read that right, Norway brought in “special forces” from Nepal to build a stairway that works as a best walking alternative Fjellheisen cable car to the “summit” from where you can have the best view over Tromsø.
1204 up, 1204 down; tea and wonderful landscape of Tromsø in between
We did experience the cable car before, so we said we need to give a shot to the 1204 steps which in winter, of course, are not manageable by a normal human, considering this terrain, even though only a few hundred meter high only, it is subjected to avalanches! The summer stair climb experience works best, so then we go for it, to complete our post-marathon recovery in a very active and quite challenging way: up and down, with a tea break at the restaurant from above. To see the midnight sun from here, priceless! Especially after meandering thru the woods, on the stairs made by the top specialists.
Better take the steps, than the alternative “natural” path!
Norwegians have a very good understanding of nature – the shape and conditions in their country forced them to build this legacy, naturally – but even so, they are not ashamed to ask for help, from people who know even better to support smoothen difficult terrain. And who can be more proper specialists than the Nepalese? Their names are engraved in the steps, a beautiful token of a legacy that facilitates a unique experience. Of course, you can climb – during summer – on a longer raw path, but why should risk? And if a guy like me, with a lot of mountain experience says this, than it is true!
One day trip to Senja, 12 hours round from Tromsø
It was the perfect method to end the day, and I need to mention that we arrived here, climbed, and descended the steps, after walking on foot from Tromsøbadet and then back to our accommodation. A total of 14 kilometers. Plus five that we walked to the swimming pool! This is what we call recovery! 22nd of June is dedicated to exploring Senja, a long, but meaningful trip that took in total 12 hours. It is something to talk separately about, especially since we made some mistakes that should be learned for the future, and I want also to share them with others, in detail.
No reindeer in sight in Kvaløya…
The last two days had other means. 23rd of June was dedicated to try and spot reindeer in Kvaløya. As said, we saw them from the busses, every time we passed by (four occasions!) so we decided to give it a go by foot, and to combine everything with a run. Unfortunately, things didn’t turn out as expected, and even if – we found out later – there is a reindeer farm close by, we didn’t see any reindeer. At least we run 15 kilometers in total, 11 in one go, towards the main shopping center, where we found out we can’t buy any Norway football national team shirt, because they are all gone, and four back to the hotel, to prepare for next steps.
The midnight concert from Tromsø Cathedral, a must attend!
Our further activities were not spectacular, in the sense that we’ve been again for the Mack Brewery tour, in the hope we will get more beer, though, and then we headed out for another Hard Rock Cafe burger, just to wrap this up for our third visit in Tromsø. Some libraries and shop visits, also a stop to the oldest building from Tromsø, dating back in 1789! (below, yellow), and then we went back to the hotel to prepare for another type of new experience: Midnight Concert. An interesting event of 30 minutes, between 11:00 and 11:30 PM hold in Tromsø Cathedral (not the Arctic Cathedral, but in the yellow one from the city center!).
One more go to Ølhallen, oldest pub in Tromsø
Rather short, but powerful experience, especially for the ones who want to immerse even deeper in the charm and culture of the place. After this was done, we went for a beer in Ølhallen, the Mack beer pub with 72 types!, an experience which was not new for us, though, but worth being mentioned – exactly, same place were, during my Midnight Sun Marathon we were cheered with the Viking row! At the end, we enjoyed some blue light from the midnight sun, alongside the pure silence from 1 AM in the morning on the streets.
Tromsøya from north to south
One more day to go so, obviously, we made it count! For long time I was dreaming to run around Tromsøya, but having 25 kilometers or so, was not the current best idea. So then, I come up with the idea to go North to South, for 12 kilometers. Manageable and in the end very beautiful – track here! We have enjoyed the green silence of the place’s core, and made another ticked objective. Because this is a niche thing, I might talk more in a separate post. Now, I will get back to the diary and mention Tromsøbadet again, because as stated we went for a second round there, so much we loved it.
Again, no reindeer in Kvaløya
This time, it ended past 8 PM, but taking again advantage of the everlasting sun, we took the bold decision to go again to Kvaløya, this time only by bus to maybe, just maybe, meet the reindeer. Again, no luck. Even if we went close to the alleged farm that has the most of them. They were no where to be seen, unfortunately, so we need to be pleased with their appearance when we were in the buses, and did manage to take some pictures at well.
The most beautiful golden hour you can get in Tromsø!
25th of June is our last day, but having the plane at 15:20, this gave us the occasion to stretch a bit our experience. First, even if we were so very tired, we took 20 minutes of our time, well past 1 AM in the morning to experience the most wonderful and bright midnight sun we could see in our entire stay. The golden hour show us the most beautiful side, and we capture as much as we could. We needed to rest, though, and also do our departure preparations.
Last glance at the landscape, until next time!
Everything was done and approached properly, so we did have the time for a 1.5 hour walk and sun enjoyment before our ride to airport. We took advantage, and also took advantage that some of Tromsø tunnels are closed for renovation, so our bus took the alternative route on the South side, and we were able to admire a clear and beautiful image of the rugged terrain from Kvaløya. We might not seen the reindeer close, but we can enjoy the covered in snow mountain peaks at prime level.
One connection only: that is a great sensation!
This was it, we are returning to Bucharest with only one connection in Frankfurt which, again, it is a very first, since normally we needed two. It is a great feeling, and we feel fulfilled with another perfect experience. As condensed I have intended to keep this post, a proper journey diary to share with other cannot be comprised even more, because the value of the content would have been very poor. To keep you away, maybe, from reading a lot, I did highlight in red the most important check points of our journey. Hope this helps! 🙂
